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Alternative Adventures

A Peruvian Adventure
By Karen Spillane

I have always been interested in learning about alternative healing modalities and the uses of medicinal herbs. I also feel a deep connection to Mother Earth. I think most gardeners do on some level. Sol was intrigued when a friend of mine introduced me to a woman who was leading a spiritual quest and sightseeing tour to Peru. Participants would be provided with the opportunity to meet with Shamans, visit historic sites and explore the flora and fauna of the region.   Although I have rarely traveled outside of the United States, I have always been drawn to Machu Picchu and had hoped to visit it one day. I decided to go outside my comfort zone and I joined the tour.

We flew from Boston via Fort Lauderdale to Lima, Peru, on June 29, 2010. Arriving at 10 pm, we spent the night at the El Ducado Hotel in Lima and rose early the next morning to catch a flight to Iquitos which is located in the northern part of Peru.   Iquitos is a bustling city with streets filled with noisy motor scooters, motorcycles, small cars and vans. Although it was winter in Peru, the temperature was approximately 86 degrees and very humid. We had been told ahead of time to pack all of our clothes for the jungle in vacuum plastic bags due to the high humidity. We met up with several more members of the tour and a second group leader, a shaman named Cesar who only spoke Spanish.

Our first destination was the Muyuna Lodge which was located in a remote area on the Amazon River. We boarded a diesel engine boat that resembled the boat in the classic movie The African Queen with Humphrey Bogart and Kathryn Hepburn. Cruising along on the murky brown river, we saw an occasional diesel engine boat or a wooden dugout boat containing one or two occupants but, over all, the area was largely uninhabited by humans. Three hours later we arrived at the lodge.

The lodge consisted of thatched reed roofs and screened rooms opening toward the jungle.   There was no electricity but, there was a generator which enabled water to be pumped throughout the facility, allowing us to take cold showers. Our meals consisted of fresh fruit- mangoes, bananas and pineapple-fresh juices, eggs, fish, potatoes and rice. At night, lanterns were lit throughout the facility creating a lovely luminescence. The jungle sounds were amazingly haunting at night especially since we didn't know what was out there!

Our guide Raphael, who had lived on the Amazon since he was seven, took us on several walks through the jungle trails. We were cautioned by Raphael never to go out in the jungle by ourselves. He always led the way and used a machete to tap the ground and trees to check for poisonous snakes and wildlife. We were given black rubber boots to wear which partially protected us but were very hot. On our walks, we observed many medicinal herbal plants and trees.   One tree we observed had a substance that looked like iodine running down the trunk. Our guide mentioned that it was good for cuts and abrasions.   We also saw the smallest monkeys in the world, sloths, and unusual bats.

During a bird-watching boat ride, we saw thousands of egrets and herons who clustered on the banks of the river and sat in the tops of trees. We also observed pink dolphins swimming in the river. They put on quite a show for us. Our guide considered this an unusual sighting in such a remote region of the world. Several of us swam in the river in a location that did not contain too many piranhas. Fish nibbled on us, tickling us and making us laugh. Cesar, our Spanish speaking shaman, performed ceremonies with us in the evening using a blend of medicinal herbs while praying over us. It was translated to us that he made a potion of six herbs into a bitter brew. The brew was used to enhance our dream state, give insight into our lives through our dreams and was good for our personal health.

After returning to Iquitos, we visited open markets that were selling herbs, fish, vegetables and many other items A few people from our group visited a well known medicinal herbalist named Golbert Grandez.    Golbert was quite knowledgeable about medicinal herbs and held a private session with each person prescribing an herbal regimen to follow that could cure any ailment of the mind, body or spirit. While he gave us a list of herbs that he uses, he only gave the common names. After much research on the internet, we were able to find botanical names for some of the herbs that he used. (See Chart)

Next we flew to Cusco and then boarded a van to the Pacha Mama Spiritual Center located near the Sacred Valley of the Incas, Urbamba Valley.   The center is surrounded by the Andes Mountains and was quite beautiful. We were greeted by two shamans, Alfredo and Wayra who performed ceremonies with us in the temple.   A crystal bowl healing was performed by Alfredo. Crystal bowl healing optimizes health in the body by aligning the energy of the body to the vibratory sounds of the crystal bowl. Wayra tossed coca leaves on the floor and intuitively told each participant, through the translator, insightful information pertaining to our personal lives. Ayurvedic massage and a sweat lodge were other alternative healing modalities that were offered as well.
After leaving the Center, we boarded a van and travelled to a small town where we took a beautiful ride through the mountains on the Peruvian Railway arriving in Aguas Calientes, located in the valley of Machu Picchu.   When we arrived, a grand festival was taking place celebrating the anniversary of Machu Picchu being named the "Seventh Wonder of the World".  The town held a parade with small children of all ages dressed up in their school uniforms marching and singing praises to Machu Picchu.

Later we took a bus ride up the mountain navigating several hairpin turns to Machu Picchu with our guide Kucho, who is also known as "Guardian of Machu Picchu".   Kucho pointed out the spiritual significance of the mountains surrounding the site, the Puma and Condor symbolism and the fact that the area was mainly composed of iron and quartz, therefore, strongly magnetic. Kucho had us close our eyes and hold hands while climbing many stone steps until we reached our destination. When he told us to open our eyes, the view was absolutely breathtaking and we could feel the expansiveness of the area. It was hard to breathe, though, as the elevation was approximately 7,700 feet. Llamas sauntered by us grazing on the sparse grass as we admired the view.

The ancient Inca city was comprised of stone buildings. The houses of the High Priests and Priestesses were built of square stones fitting so closely together that even a dime could not be wedged between them. Houses of more common people were mostly built using round stones and had larger gaps between the stones. Windows were strategically placed to face sacred mountains around the site and to capture eclipses, solstices and other celestial events. Near the uppermost top of the site sat a huge sundial that had a guard posted by it to keep tourists from touching it. The next day the Peruvian guide and I visited two botanical gardens containing huge varieties of orchids and other tropical plants. I also visited a historical museum housing many artifacts from Machu Picchu.
Our next destination was to Cusco, an ancient city built by the Incas and added to by the conquering Spaniards.   The streets were very narrow and were built for llamas. They had a raised area on the edge of each side of the street where it was safest to walk when small compact cars barreled through. There are no rules of the road in Peru. Oftentimes, two cars would travel in opposing directions down the narrow streets or a driver would leave a parked car or van unattended in the middle of the road for an undetermined time.

The temperature was approximately 60 to 70 degrees in the daytime (unusually warm for this time of year) with temperatures descending to 30 to 40 degrees in the evenings.   Breathing was challenging due to the high altitude which was approximately 10,000 feet. We spent the day visiting the open markets shopping for beautiful sweaters and gifts and, later, dined in a four star Peruvian restaurant.

We flew from Cusco to Lima the day before we flew back to the States. In Lima we visited the Love Park along the ocean, dined and concluded our amazing trip by viewing the colorful lights of Lima in the evening.
This trip opened up my view of the world. I participated in nontraditional healing modalities and experienced a oneness with nature in a new way. I was able to feel the great expansiveness and ancientness of Machu Picchu. I walked on streets built by the Incas and Spaniards in Cusco.   I was exposed to how poor, native people live. I found them dignified, respectful and polite.    The whole trip was very uplifting and I look forward to my next adventure.

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